What's the atmosphere like?
It's all a village pub should be. Virtually unchanged for close on two centuries, it's a focal point for a thriving little community. There is seating in the corner reserved for the old-timers - and even they have a pecking order. The log fire roars out a great welcome in winter. In summer, most of the activity switches to the beer garden by the Dunning Burn. Spontaneous ceilidh sessions most weekends.
What about the decor?
It's a split-level affair with the main upstairs bar giving off the real feel of an old inn in a genuinely comforting rural way. There is a snug reserved for lunch with the kids and the downstairs restaurant is elegant and classy.
Who drinks here?A lot of locals and farmers from the surrounding area meet here as well as golfers from Gleneagles who have heard of its fine reputation. A photo-gallery features regulars when they were much younger. They enjoy six outings a year sea angling out of Arbroath. The catch is brought back, cooked on the premises and served up to everyone there. There were 194 fish last time out.
What about the staff?
Dunning-born Dawn Turner couldn't believe her luck when she took over the old inn five years ago. It was once run by her great-great grandmother. Dawn has made a name for herself thanks to the quality of fare from the kitchen. Head chef Irene Gordon gets most of the credit and bar manageress Brenda Jones helps keep things ticking over.
The food?
Great. Most of it is grown locally. Try chicken and mango marinated in white wine (£5.25), corn-fed chicken with a stilton and leek sauce (£6.25) or home-made soup and crusty bread (£2.00). Wild field mushrooms are picked in the summer to make a legendary mushroom stroganoff.
FACTS: Tennent's Velvet, £2; Tennent's Lager, £1.95; whisky or vodka (35ml), £1.40; red wine (175ml) £1.80.